Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
